1/21/2006
This is the second in the series of my Guatemalan adventures. For the previous entry, click here.
So here I am in Chichicastenango, Guatemala. What a terrific first day! The group I'm with is great fun, and they all come from very interesting backgrounds. Dave is a colo-rectal surgeon, Martha is Argentinian and works in pharmaceuticals, Kerbey is a former ER doc now working at Austin State Hospital, and there are many more.
Guatemala is gorgeous, with its ubiquitous verdant, rugged mountains. We spent the day driving about three and a half hours from Guatemala City through winding highways, narrowly avoiding collisions with the barely obedient traffic. The pollution is pretty terrible in the city, with all of the large trucks spewing fumes, but if that can be overlooked, the natural beauty is breathtaking. The people who make a livelihood of farming all the impossibly steep inclines along this countryside are awe-inspiring. I admit a certain sense of embarrassment from gawking like an alien. It's terribly fascinating to me that anyone could thrive in this strange landscape of makeshift shacks with staggeringly beautiful views. My status as an outsider is highlighted every time I photograph someone, or when someone asks me for money or tries to sell me their tragically similar trinkets.
It is especially difficult to say no to the multitudinous children, many of whom are dirty and small, and all of whom are irresistably adorable. I broke down and bought a group of them some peanut M&Ms to share (compartir), which unfortunately led only to more begging.
The town is ancient and dirty, vibrant and intriguing. Two churches, one of the sun and the other of the moon, face each other over the market in the center of town. We observed, as our good fortune would allow, a procession of saints for St. Raymond's day. There were homemade fireworks (bombas; how funny it was to watch all of us gringos flinch and duck!) and musicians in front of the large church of the sun. I look forward to attending mass tomorrow morning, as I am told the people observe a unique blend of ancient Mayan and Catholic traditions. I also look forward to the almost certainly harrowing and overwhelming market day tomorrow. Sunday is the biggest market in Chichi, which happens to be the biggest in Guatemala. And now, after a delicious homemade meal of chicken, rice, beans and native squash, nestled in my Mayan quilts, I will sleep hoping that I am not poisoned by gas (the heater's pilot light is being rather fickle over there).
Next time:
So here I am in Chichicastenango, Guatemala. What a terrific first day! The group I'm with is great fun, and they all come from very interesting backgrounds. Dave is a colo-rectal surgeon, Martha is Argentinian and works in pharmaceuticals, Kerbey is a former ER doc now working at Austin State Hospital, and there are many more.
Guatemala is gorgeous, with its ubiquitous verdant, rugged mountains. We spent the day driving about three and a half hours from Guatemala City through winding highways, narrowly avoiding collisions with the barely obedient traffic. The pollution is pretty terrible in the city, with all of the large trucks spewing fumes, but if that can be overlooked, the natural beauty is breathtaking. The people who make a livelihood of farming all the impossibly steep inclines along this countryside are awe-inspiring. I admit a certain sense of embarrassment from gawking like an alien. It's terribly fascinating to me that anyone could thrive in this strange landscape of makeshift shacks with staggeringly beautiful views. My status as an outsider is highlighted every time I photograph someone, or when someone asks me for money or tries to sell me their tragically similar trinkets.
It is especially difficult to say no to the multitudinous children, many of whom are dirty and small, and all of whom are irresistably adorable. I broke down and bought a group of them some peanut M&Ms to share (compartir), which unfortunately led only to more begging.
The town is ancient and dirty, vibrant and intriguing. Two churches, one of the sun and the other of the moon, face each other over the market in the center of town. We observed, as our good fortune would allow, a procession of saints for St. Raymond's day. There were homemade fireworks (bombas; how funny it was to watch all of us gringos flinch and duck!) and musicians in front of the large church of the sun. I look forward to attending mass tomorrow morning, as I am told the people observe a unique blend of ancient Mayan and Catholic traditions. I also look forward to the almost certainly harrowing and overwhelming market day tomorrow. Sunday is the biggest market in Chichi, which happens to be the biggest in Guatemala. And now, after a delicious homemade meal of chicken, rice, beans and native squash, nestled in my Mayan quilts, I will sleep hoping that I am not poisoned by gas (the heater's pilot light is being rather fickle over there).
Next time:
posted by Ali at 2/01/2006 09:39:00 PM
3 Comments:
ali! how cool to read this post and know that you are over there! i spent a day in chichi, bought a few things like woven placemats and two necklaces. i feel guilty now for having haggled with the vendors, but they expect that. lots of beauty (and pollution) as you mentioned. Eat some corn tortillas with guacamole and a gallo cerveza para mi, amigo. Es posible que regreso a guatemala en la primavera. espero mas cuentos! (olvido espanol rapidamente)
Well, technically I'm back in the states - just transcribing the ol' handwritten journal here.
Haha, I know you were there because you said "gallo cerveza!" And yes, I had my fair share.
If you go back, you should come with our group! Seriously, that would be so cool. These guys were so freaking awesome.
i'll remember that, its hard to get away for longer than a week these days though. i can remember all the little girls in bright dresses saying:
"tenemos agua pura!"
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